Sample material in class

 

Rough Varieties
Approximate Percentage
(a)    Well formed octahedrons and modified octahedrons     
20%
(b)    Well formed dodecahedrons and slightly modified dodecahedrons 
15%
(c)     Rounded dodecahedrons         
15%
(d)     Irregular dodecahedrons  
12%
(e)     Cleavages       
6%
(f)      Flats 
11%
(g)     Macles   
10%
(h)     Combination twins     
5%
(i)      Contact twins   
1%
(j)      Freeforms      
5%
Total
100%

 

Approximate varieties of rough in an average gem parcel

CHART C

           

The above percentages will vary from one mine location to another.  In some mines, one group or the other may have a higher percentage.

            Additional factors in the weight yield of rough diamonds are its color and inclusions; both internal and external.  Inclusions, particularly, will affect the orientation of the rough diamond during manufacturing and ultimately the final weight of the finished diamond. 

            We will now examine the previous ten varieties, and see how structure and shape affect the percentage of the finished weight retention.  The percentages discussed in the following pages are very accurate and can be relied upon to consistently produce these finished weights from the rough.  (Whenever there is a percentage range we will also discuss when to apply the lower or higher percentage).  It is recommended that these percentages be used when purchasing rough in the field. 

            It should also be noted that we are beginning to learn simple but efficient methods, which will later be combined with other factors to be able to price the rough.


 

(c) Dodecahedrons

            Dodecahedrons and slightly modified dodecahedrons go through exactly the same process as an octahedron.  This group usually composes 15% of a rough parcel.  However, because of the more rounded outline the weight yield is slightly higher.  Weight retention of 51% to 55% can be obtained from the rough.  When making calculations in the field we can use an average of 53%.  The following two aerial view photographs, photo 2.22 and 2.23, will reveal the difference in outline.  Notice the slightly bulged outline in photo 2.23 of the dodecahedron as compared to the straight lines seen in photo 2.22.

 

 

 


diameter of the rough is not proportional to its depth, the proportions of the finished diamond will be poor and an excessive amount of weight can be lost.  The weight retention can sometimes be as low as 30%.

                                                                      

(Note:  The above three categories account for 50% in most rough gem quality parcels).

(e) Irregular dodecahedrons (whole diamonds type 2)

            Irregular dodecahedrons are always elongated in outline (photo 2.5).  The shape does not lend itself to be fashioned into round brilliants but rather as a fancy cut.  These diamonds are manufactured as one single fancy shape diamond.  To insist on manufacturing into a round brilliant from an irregular dodecahedron; this will result in excessive weight loss.

 

            The weight yield for irregular dodecahedrons is from 35% to 45%.  If the shape of the rough follows the shape of the fancy cut, the weight retention will be closer to 45%.  On the other hand if the rough is too thick, (depth is not proportionate to the width) or the outline is not well suited to the cut, the weight retention will be closer to 30% to 35%.  The rough octahedron or dodecahedron can either be sawn in half to produce two diamonds of the same size or sawed slightly above the center to produce one smaller and one larger finished piece  (Fig. 7.7).

 

Notice in diagram 7.7A the widest diameter of the octahedron becomes the sawed plane, which in turn, automatically gives us the table plane.  The table plane is used as the foundation for the entire layout of the remainder of the rough.  Diagram 7.7B shows the point at which the saw plane will exist to produce one smaller and one larger finished piece.  Notice that the girdle plane of the larger finished diamond outline is situated at the widest point of the rough. Also, the height of the sawing plane cannot exceed more than 16.2% from the girdle plane of the larger section. If the rough is marked any higher,valuable rough material will be wasted.

 

Given the proportions that were used in diagram 7.7B the table size cannot be made any smaller than 53%.  Therefore, marking the octahedron or dodecahedron above the 16.2% point will be taking away usable material from the smaller section of the rough.


 

Fig. 8.4

            Fig. 8.4 reveals a side view of a very shallow rough crystal.  Two possibilities exist.  Either brut the rough to reduce diameter compensating for the shallow depth, or stop the bruting at a point in which the finished diamond will have shallow proportions.  If the diameter of the diamond is left too wide there will not be sufficient depth to complete the diamond to adequate proportions.  Very poor proportions will be counter-productive to any extra weight that may be saved. The above examples are a key consideration in deciding what possibilities exist in producing a finished diamond from a whole rough crystal (non-sawables).

(b) The girdle plane on sawables and non-sawables

            After the rough diamond has been bruted and sufficient girdle thickness is made to accommodate the desired crown height percentage, the diamond is marked with a line around the girdle to give the diamond cutter a guide as to where the crown and pavilion

                                                                               


  

10.11

                                                                        

            Photo 10.11 is the manufactured rectangular shape rough that was seen in photo 10.10.

            Now that we have examined the shape of the rough diamond in relation to the various possibilities for specific fancy shapes, we will now examine the approximate percentage of rough fancy shapes that exist for each of the following groups.

No.

Rough Groups

* Approximate percentage of fancy shapes

1.

Irregular dodecahedron (type 2)

8%

2.

Cleavages

2%

3.

Flats

3%

4.

Macles

5%

5.

Combination twins

2%

6.

Contact twins

½ %

7.

Free forms

3%

                                              TOTAL:           23 ½ %

Whole diamonds

Chart G